The scene before me was picturesque: a swiftly flowing river bubbling over and around rocks framed by flowering banks and protruding ledges. I was visiting a natural beauty spot but swirling pools of foam caused by detergent being carelessly drained into the river somewhere upstream made the experience bittersweet. Many years have passed since my journey to that formerly favorite tourist retreat and considering the progress made in cleaning up the environment I suspect the scene has changed to ...