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Road Trip: Big Bend
Where the Desert Meets the Sky
Tue, January 20, 2015 8:04 PM

The Big Bend area of Texas is unique, is beautiful, is important, and one of the least visited locations in the Lone Star State. Why? I'm glad I asked myself that question and I'll answer all of it, starting with its location first.

Big Bend is remote—tucked away in the deepest southwestern area of the state—formed when the Rio Grande flowing southeast makes its big bend to the northeast. That dramatic shift is what helps give Texas its exceptional shape.

It's not on the way to anywhere. You have to mean to go there, you don't just drive by the Big Bend and notice it. Consider that its best known town, Terlingua, is about 500 miles from Austin, 300 miles from El Paso, even 250 miles from Midland and Odessa. Amarillo is 500 miles north; Beaumont is 700 miles east. If you live in Terlingua, you will make a 200-mile roundtrip for groceries or to see a physician. The nearest Wal-Mart is 140 miles off, one way.

But when you get there... oh, my, are you in store for some magic.

First thing you notice are the mountains in Big Bend National Park, like the Chisos, tall and majestic, dominating your view. These are volcanic mountains and it doesn't take much imagination to see the lava bursting through the ground and solidifying into unusual formations such as the Mule Ears or various dikes along the sides of nearly every hill.

When you drive into the Chisos Basin, you drive up a side of the mountain, then down into the basin itself, more than a mile high. Understand that what you're driving into is the cone of an ancient volcano. Once inside, the views will take your breath away. You can't miss The Window, a V-shaped optical illusion where two mountains appear to come together. You can hike down and see where the water in the basin pours off onto the desert below.

The Window is also the dominant visual when looking at the Chisos from the west, with Casa Grande standing tall in the midst of that V.

In those mountains are great hiking trails like Lost Mine Peak and the South Rim, the end of each more than 7,000 feet high and each with dramatic views that will make you think you're sitting on the edge of the world. Where else can you look down on eagles? In these mountains roam lions and black bears and javelinas and fox and white-tail deer. Hiking up here you discover what you would expect in such an ecosystem: thick stands of trees like ash, juniper, oak and pine, things you will not see in the desert.

Below the mountains stretch the northern portion of the Chihuahuan Desert, full of cactus, ocotillo, yucca and bluebonnets. Those bluebonnets—much taller than the ones commonly seen in the Hill Country—bloom in the spring and often in January or February.

No matter where you go in this desert you will discover scenic vistas and dramatic landscapes, from the famed Balanced Rock in the Grapevine Hills to the unusual colors and rock formations of Ernst Tinaja to ... to the mouth of Santa Elena Canyon.

Flowing out of that canyon is the Rio Grande. You'll find an interesting hike here that will take you into the canyon and by thick stands of plants like acacia, huisache, river cane, and tamarisk.

The Big Bend is one of the very few places in the United States where you can experience three distinct ecosystems—desert, mountains and river—within a very small area. It's climate and location and diversity also make it one of the top places in The U.S. for birds—more than 450 species.

And, yes, that river out there—that narrow band of rolling brown water, is the Rio Grande and it is an international boundary. When you stand at some locales, like at Santa Elena Canyon or Big Hill outside the park, it's nearly impossible to believe those hills and cliffs are in Mexico. You can toss a rock across in most places.

And you can visit Mexico once more from the national park. The crossing into the tiny town of Boquillas is now open after being closed for a decade. Buy your ticket at the store in Rio Grande Village and you will be rowed across. A guide will take you around the rejuvenated village and some unique views back across into the U.S. To get across, be sure you have your passport or a passport card.

As impressive as the national park is, that's not all that Big Bend has to offer because Big Bend is.... BIG. The area has more than a million acres and is larger than a couple of New England states combined.

A few miles west of the national park is Terlingua Ghost Town, the ruins of an old quicksilver mining town and home to the best food in the region at several restaurants and a great gift shop. If you like music, this is your place. Local musicians often play on the porch, and nearly every night in the restaurants here.

Drive along FM 170, the River Road, and you'll discover movie sets, an amazing canyon that closes in on you as you walk further into it, Big Hill with breathtaking views, and one of the top scenic drives in all of Texas.

At the western edge is Big Bend State Ranch. You know this place is remote when you have to drive down a 27-mile dirt road just to get to park headquarters. A more accessible part of the park is the Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center in Lajitas with historic exhibits. Fort Leaton is another part of the park, near Presidio, and shouldn't be missed.

To the north, check out the Museum of the Big Bend on the campus of Sul Ross University in Alpine for a comprehensive look at the area. A little further north is Fort Davis, home of one of the best restored Indian Wars forts in the nation and Davis Mountains State Park and McDonald Observatory where astronomers host regular star parties to get you up close to the cosmos.

If you're looking for lodging, you will find accommodations in all three parks, in Fort Davis, and in the towns of Lajitas, Terlingua and Study Butte.

Note — Allan C. Kimball is also the author of the "Big Bend Guide" and two novels of historical fiction set in Big Bend: "Rainbows Wait For Rain" and "The Legend of Fort Leaton."

For More Information:

Big Bend National Park: 432-477-2251, www.nps.gov/bibe/

Big Bend Ranch State Park: 432-358-4444, 432-424-3327, www.tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/big-bend-ranch 

Davis Mountains State Park: 432-426-3337, www.tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/davis-mountains

Fort Davis National Historic Site: 432-426-3224, www.nps.gov/foda/

General Information: www.bigbendchamber.homestead.com, www.bigbendbookstore.org, and www.visitbigbend.com.

McDonald Observatory: 432-426-3640, www.mcdonaldobservatory.org

Museum of the Big Bend: 432-837-8143, www.museumofthebigbend.com

Terlingua Ghost Town: www.ghosttowntexas.com

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