Hang your Stetson in Central Texas, and you’ve got a lot to brag about. We live in an outdoorsman’s paradise — more than a dozen sparkling clear lakes offer you world class fishing, sailing, and other water sports. Our hills abound with whitetail deer, wild turkey, and other game. Birdwatchers flock here from all over the world. We have wineries, breweries, festivals, rodeos, home-grown country music — I could go on and on and on. But just recently I had the opportunity to visit a few of our Painted Churches — attractions that I’d heard of, but had never before experienced.
Many of the early European settlers came to Texas from that part of the world we today call Germany, Slovakia, and the Czech Republic. They brought much of their culture with them — their beer, their rich, hearty food (think kolaches, schnitzels, and the wonderful world of wursts), and their waltzes and polkas. And they brought their religion.
Now, the thing about Old World Churches is that they’re . . . well . . . old. And there was a huge difference between then and now. In my youth, when we wanted information we had books, newspapers, and magazines; nowadays it’s the internet with its blogs, forums and chat rooms. Google, Wikipedia, and a host of other websites put the world at our fingertips. Any subject we’re interested in, a few keystrokes and there it is for us to read. And “read” is the key word.
But travel back in time 500 years and you’d see a different picture. In fact you might see a lot of pictures — that’s what makes Old Country churches so special. When most folks were illiterate, they used visual images to communicate. Places of worship in Europe are adorned with stories from the Bible. Can’t read or write? No problem — just look around the walls of the church, the stained glass windows, or the altar pieces. Everywhere you look, you’ll see countless lessons from the sacred texts. Maybe the Creation of Adam and Eve. Maybe Moses and the Ten Commandments. Or perhaps Jesus Descending from the Cross. The images are not merely colorful decorations – they are a way of communicating information, medieval style.
Now, our Texas Painted Churches were built much later than the Middle Ages. Most were constructed in the late 19th century or early 20th. But the thing is, these Germans and Czechs wanted to build a place of worship that reminded them of their homelands back in Bohemia, Moravia, Saxony or Bavaria. It was no longer necessary to tell stories, but these new Americans needed their church interiors to be beautiful, colorful, and joyful places to worship, like the ones they had left back home.
If you’d like to see this part of Texas history for yourself, here are some websites with directions, phone numbers, and additional information: (1) http://www.klru.org/paintedchurches/churches.html (2) http://www.klru.org/paintedchurches/ (3) http://www.usatoday.com/story/travel/destinations/2013/07/28/texas-painted-churches/2590297/ and (4) http://www.chron.com/life/houston-belief/article/Painted-Churches-are-Texas-gems-3462732.php
So far I’ve looked in on St. Mary’s Catholic Church in Fredericksburg, St. John the Baptist Catholic Church in Ammansville, Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church in Dubina, and The Nativity of St. Mary in High Hill. Some are more colorful and ornate; others understated and elegant. All are well worth a visit. I’m very much looking forward to St. Mary’s Church of the Assumption in Praha, St. Paul’s Lutheran Church in Serbin, and at least 10 more. Best day to plan a visit is probably Saturday when most of the churches are open to the public. Remember — these are still very much in use as places of worship, not as tourist attractions. When you go, treat them with dignity and respect, especially if a service is in progress.
And let me tell you a little secret — the same cultures that produced these beautiful churches also make some of the best barbecue in Texas, if not the world. Ask around for local favorite places. I’m a smoked brisket freak, so if you find a culinary gem let me know. And here’s something else — if one of your stops is Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church in Shiner, be sure you give yourself time to try some of the local beer at the Spoetzl Brewery (http://www.shiner.com/.) In fact, I might just see you there — that’s one of the churches on my list, and I’d hate to pass up a cool dark Shiner Bock on a hot summer day!
